11 Days Around Manaslu: A Father–Son Journey Through the Himalayas
Introduction: A dream realized
For years, I had dreamed of trekking through the Himalayas side by side with my son — sharing the rhythm of the trail, the thin mountain air, and the quiet moments between steps that say more than words ever could.
Embarking on a hiking adventure in the breathtaking Himalayas is a dream for many nature lovers. For my son and me, it was not just a trek; it was a journey that tightened our bond and created cherished memories. The Manaslu Circuit, with its stunning landscapes and vibrant cultural history, provided the perfect backdrop for our father-son expedition. Over 10 days, we traveled through rugged trails, met warm-hearted locals, and immersed ourselves in nature’s unspoiled beauty.
In this post, I’ll share our experiences, the challenges we faced, and the valuable lessons we learned. Whether you’re an experienced hiker or planning your first trek, I hope our story prompts you to explore the stunning trails of Nepal.
I have also attached the gpx files for each segment.
For me, October was opportunity. There weren’t many working days on the calendar, and something about that felt like a sign — a rare alignment of time, energy, and possibility.
The idea that had lived in my mind for years suddenly came alive in a single conversation. Within days, we were booking flights to Kathmandu, working out the day-to-day itinerary, plotting routes and scanning gear lists.
We reached out to Puru the manager of orbitalpineadventure, in Kathmandu who did a wonderful job arranging all the logistics, bringing on Bishnu our excellent guide whom we spent hours talking to and Suk our smiley porter to join us.
There wasn’t much time to overthink it. Within a week, we were boarding a plane to Kathmandu — a little nervous, very excited, and full of that familiar pre-adventure electricity.
It wasn’t just a trip anymore. It felt like something that was meant to happen — a small window of opportunity, perfectly timed, finally open.
We left the city behind in a blur of dust and horns, the chaos slowly giving way to terraced fields and hills so green they seemed to glow.
By the time we reached Machha Khola, the sun had already dropped behind the hills. The air was heavy and humid with the sound of the river, and the town — really just a row of teahouses — glowed with the soft light of kerosene lamps.
TIP: Weather in Machha Khola during October is humid, a ceiling fan in the room is highly recommended. Ask your agent for a room with a fan and an attached bathroom as a must. This should be booked in advance since there are not much hotels in Machha Khola. We stayed in " Hotel Nirvana", I would not recommend.
We stopped on the way at a small village named Tatopani, that has a natural thermal water pool to dip yourself in. Reaching Jagat, we were met with traditional stone houses and terraced fields. The village buzzed with energy, and we felt a deep sense of accomplishment as we checked into our guesthouse for the night.
Villages appeared like whispers — a few houses, a prayer flag, a smiling child shouting “Namaste!”. Along the way, we passed groups of mules carrying supplies, their bells echoing down the canyon. The air grew cooler, and the forests thicker with bamboo and pine.
By the time we reached Deng, we’d covered about seven hours of walking.
The trek to Namrung was a significant highlight. As we climbed higher, the scenery transformed, showcasing incredible views of the surrounding peaks.
We hiked slowly, soaking in the beauty around us. As we walked, my son and I shared stories, laughter, and reflections, which strengthened our connection with each step.
Namrung greeted us with warm hospitality.
The climb to Lho was steady but breathtaking — literally and figuratively. The trail wound through rhododendron forests and small Tibetan-style villages.
Preparing for the Trek – When Everything Aligned
Sometimes the best adventures don’t come from long planning — they come from a sudden clarity that the time is now.
The decision to trek in Nepal came almost in an instant. My son had just spent two transformative months traveling across India — a journey full of color and insight — and had spent some easy, sun-soaked days in Thailand afterward.
The decision to trek in Nepal came almost in an instant. My son had just spent two transformative months traveling across India — a journey full of color and insight — and had spent some easy, sun-soaked days in Thailand afterward.
For me, October was opportunity. There weren’t many working days on the calendar, and something about that felt like a sign — a rare alignment of time, energy, and possibility.
The idea that had lived in my mind for years suddenly came alive in a single conversation. Within days, we were booking flights to Kathmandu, working out the day-to-day itinerary, plotting routes and scanning gear lists.
We reached out to Puru the manager of orbitalpineadventure, in Kathmandu who did a wonderful job arranging all the logistics, bringing on Bishnu our excellent guide whom we spent hours talking to and Suk our smiley porter to join us.
There wasn’t much time to overthink it. Within a week, we were boarding a plane to Kathmandu — a little nervous, very excited, and full of that familiar pre-adventure electricity.
It wasn’t just a trip anymore. It felt like something that was meant to happen — a small window of opportunity, perfectly timed, finally open.
Day 1 – The Long Road to Machha Khola (930 m)
The adventure began not with a mountain, but with a road — winding, bumpy, and endlessly alive. From Kathmandu, we loaded our packs onto a private jeep, bound for Machha Khola, the starting point of our trek. The drive took about 6.5 hours.
We left the city behind in a blur of dust and horns, the chaos slowly giving way to terraced fields and hills so green they seemed to glow.
By the time we reached Machha Khola, the sun had already dropped behind the hills. The air was heavy and humid with the sound of the river, and the town — really just a row of teahouses — glowed with the soft light of kerosene lamps.
TIP: Weather in Machha Khola during October is humid, a ceiling fan in the room is highly recommended. Ask your agent for a room with a fan and an attached bathroom as a must. This should be booked in advance since there are not much hotels in Machha Khola. We stayed in " Hotel Nirvana", I would not recommend.
Day 2 – Machha Khola to Jagat (1,340 m)
INFO: Distance 17.6 km / climb 760 m / duration ~6.5 Hr
On the first hiking day, we woke up early, eager to start our trek. The trail ran through lush forests and parallel to the Budhi Gandaki River. The calming sound of flowing water accompanied us, adding a soothing backdrop to our journey.
As we trekked toward Jagat we crossed several suspension bridges, an awesome waterfall that got us all soaked and a landslide that occurred just minutes before we crossed. This definitely added a thrilling element to our hike.
TIP1: You can consider sleeping the first day at Tatopani instead of Macha Khola and bathing in thermal water in the evening. A much nicer experience than the hotel in Macha Khola.
TIP2: The original hotel that was booked by the agent was dark and not so welcoming, we have changed to the "Manaslu Shanti Hotel" that was much more welcoming and had in room bathrooms.
Day 3 – Jagat to Deng (1,890 m): The Valley Narrows
The trail from Jagat to Deng began with steep climbs and narrow paths hugging the cliffside. The Budhi Gandaki roared below — a constant companion, its power reminding us how small we were in this landscape.
Villages appeared like whispers — a few houses, a prayer flag, a smiling child shouting “Namaste!”. Along the way, we passed groups of mules carrying supplies, their bells echoing down the canyon. The air grew cooler, and the forests thicker with bamboo and pine.
By the time we reached Deng, we’d covered about seven hours of walking.
The teahouse there was small but warm, with a single wood stove in the center. A few other trekkers sat nearby, faces red from the sun, sharing stories. My son ordered noodle soup, and I caught him staring quietly out the window — the look of someone who’s both tired and fulfilled.
Day 4 – Deng to Namrung (2,630 m)
INFO: Distance 16.7 km / climb 1150 m / duration ~7 Hr
We hiked slowly, soaking in the beauty around us. As we walked, my son and I shared stories, laughter, and reflections, which strengthened our connection with each step.
Namrung greeted us with warm hospitality.
We stayed in "Hotel Cozy Inn" (They don't show up on the map), a small cozy hotel will well appointed rooms. thehotelcozyinn@gmail.com
Day 5 – Namrung to Lho (3,180 m)
INFO: Distance 9.8 km / climb 650 m / duration ~4 Hr
As we gained altitude, the peaks felt nearer, their presence almost magnetic. We stopped at a small tea house on the way to get some rest and cover from the rain that started at noon time.
By afternoon, we reached Lho, one of the most photogenic villages on the circuit. Above it stood the Ribung Monastery, and beyond that, the massive face of Manaslu itself, glowing gold in the setting sun.
TIP1: Lho is one of the more photogenic and beautiful villages on the circuit. I highly encourage planning to stay one night at this village.
TIP2: We stayed at a beautiful tea house called the "Majestic Manaslu Cottage". It's a cozy little tea house with great food, a fireplace and a guitar that some of the hikers played on.
By afternoon, we reached Lho, one of the most photogenic villages on the circuit. Above it stood the Ribung Monastery, and beyond that, the massive face of Manaslu itself, glowing gold in the setting sun.
TIP1: Lho is one of the more photogenic and beautiful villages on the circuit. I highly encourage planning to stay one night at this village.
TIP2: We stayed at a beautiful tea house called the "Majestic Manaslu Cottage". It's a cozy little tea house with great food, a fireplace and a guitar that some of the hikers played on.
Day 6 – Lho to Samagaon (3,530 m)
INFO: Distance 7.35 km / climb 490 m / duration ~3.5 HrThe day began with clear skies and crisp light. The trail opened into wide valleys and meadows where yaks grazed lazily. Every few turns, Manaslu seemed to grow larger until it filled the horizon — vast, white, and impossibly close.
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By midday it started to rain, we approached Samagaon, Some 500 meters before the village we passed the local school building. In front of the school stands a large yellow tent that offers various flavors of tea and real coffee ground on the spot from coffee beans grown in Nepal. This little tent coffee shop is operated by children from the school and one of their English speaking teachers. Part of the income from selling warm drinks goes to the school.
It was a real authentic and enriching experience to drink warm tea made of local berries and chat with the young teacher while the weather outside is cloudy and rainy.
Samagon is a nice little village made of stone houses, spinning prayer wheels, and the sound of yak bells echoing in the air. It felt timeless — as if life here had followed the same rhythm for centuries.
In Samagon there is a local farmer who produces cheese from Yak milk. He sells various types of cheese, some are harder, some softer with very distinct and delicious tastes.
In Samagon there is a local farmer who produces cheese from Yak milk. He sells various types of cheese, some are harder, some softer with very distinct and delicious tastes.
TIP1: We stayed at the "Boddhistattva Hotel and Cafe", at first, seeing the hotel from the entrance we were about to walk away, but this hotel is built such that the dinning room and balcony are on the roof and the rooms are below. Eventually is turned out to be not such a bad experience, with very good food, great views of the mountains from the room, attached bathroom and a nice ambiance.
TIP2: Samagon is usually set as the altitude acclimation point of the trek, if you decide to stay here another day, there is an option to take a short hike to the nearby lake and monetary. Since we felt pretty good and our saturation levels (SpO₂) were ~ 90% we decided to continue to Samdo.
Day 7 – Samagaon to Samdo (3,860 m): Edges of the World
INFO: Distance 8.0 km / climb 350 m / duration ~3 HrLeaving Samagaon felt like stepping further into silence. The valley opened into barren highlands, the trees fading into wind-swept rock and glacier-fed streams. Prayer flags flapped in the fierce wind as we crossed wooden bridges, the kind that creak just enough to remind you how far from home you are.
By midday, we reached Samdo, a rugged village of stone houses set against a backdrop of snow. Yaks grazed outside, bells clinking softly in the cold air. The altitude was now serious — every step slower, every breath deliberate.
In the evening the temperatures drop below zero, there is no heating in the rooms so we found ourselves tucked away in a sleeping bag under the blanket with thermal clothing on.
TIP1: Due to the lack of firewood, the dining room furnace is lighted only at 17:00 pm. This is common in all the villages that we have encountered along the route. Until then you should bring warm thermal underwear, gloves, a warm fleece and Jacket for those cold days.
TIP2: At these altitudes you may start to experience some headaches or nausea. Hydration is a critical part of coping with altitude sickness. Consider bringing a small thermos and fill it with hot water or tea so you can keep hydrated. Drinking called water from a LifeStraw is not the most fun thing to do. This Thermos will be useful as you keep climbing and through the Pass.
TIP3: Emergency equipment - Make sure you have the following emergency equipment with you, Most local agents in Nepal do not provide these as basics, so make sure you don't start climbing without them:
1. A satellite phone with your group for emergency evacuation. Frequently at these altitudes there is no internet of cellular reception during times of haze, clouds or rain.
2. An Oxygen saturation meter
3. Medicine such a Uramox to cope with altitude sickness.
1. A satellite phone with your group for emergency evacuation. Frequently at these altitudes there is no internet of cellular reception during times of haze, clouds or rain.
2. An Oxygen saturation meter
3. Medicine such a Uramox to cope with altitude sickness.
TIP4: We stayed in a very nice hotel in Samdo called " Little Tibet Samdo". It's a relatively new hotel built by two brothers that were born in the village, studied in India and returned to the village to open up this hotel. They are very welcoming, the rooms are new and clean, the dining room is cozy, they have a real espresso machine and make great coffee. Furthermore there is a Helipad adjacent to the hotel, so if someone needs EVAC they do not have to walk far but stay in their rooms.
Day 8 – Samdo to Dharamsala (4,460 m): The Night Before the Pass
INFO: Distance 6.1 km / climb 600 m / duration ~3 Hr
The climb to Dharamsala, also called Larke Phedi, followed a steep, rocky trail — a world of wind and ice. There were no villages now, just scattered tents and the low hum of trekkers preparing for the pass.
After dinner, we crawled into our sleeping bags fully dressed, alarms set for 3:45 a.m. The night skies were clear, lighted by a full moon with magnificent nightly views of the awesome ridges around us.
TIP1: Dharamsala is the base camp for the Larke Pass, all hikers converge into the base camp before embarking to the pass. It can get crowded, therefore it is recommended to book a room a day in advance before reaching Dharamsala, otherwise you might find yourself in a tent.
TIP2: Monitor your Oxygen saturation levels and keep Hydrated at all times before embarking to the Pass.
Day 9 – Dharamsala to Bimtang (3,720 m): Over Larke La Pass (5,160 m)
INFO: Distance 15.4 km / climb 680 m, descend 1440 m / duration ~7.5 Hr
This was the most physically and mentally demanding and day of the trail. We started walking in the dark, our headlamps slicing through the frozen air. light snow falling around us.
The ascent was long — a steady, relentless climb over ice and rock. The rhythm of breath and heartbeat. Step. Breathe. Step. The song "Every Breath you Take" by Police got a new meaning.
After an hour of slow progress, the eastern horizon began to glow. As the first light touched the peaks, the world turned gold and blue.
We continued to walk the 7.6 km climb till the pass, breath getting heavier and each step is a new challenge. And then — almost suddenly — we were there: Larke La Pass, 5,160 meters.
Prayer flags whipped in the wind, and a small wooden sign marked the moment: The ascent was long — a steady, relentless climb over ice and rock. The rhythm of breath and heartbeat. Step. Breathe. Step. The song "Every Breath you Take" by Police got a new meaning.
After an hour of slow progress, the eastern horizon began to glow. As the first light touched the peaks, the world turned gold and blue.
We continued to walk the 7.6 km climb till the pass, breath getting heavier and each step is a new challenge. And then — almost suddenly — we were there: Larke La Pass, 5,160 meters.
“Congratulations for the Success!”
We hugged — tired, emotional, wordless. I pulled out my phone, we stood in line to take a few photos in front of the Larke pass sign. It was a great moment of achievement that came after challenging physical and mental endurance.
The descent to Bimtang was long and knee-testing, dropping over 1,400 meters through snow and moraine. By the time we reached the valley floor, the air was thicker, the grass green again, and the exhaustion gave way to quiet joy. We’d done it.
Day 10 – Bimtang to Dharapani (1,963 m): Back to Earth
INFO: Distance 23 km / climb 100m, descend 1910m / duration ~8.5 Hr
The final day was a slow return to the world of trees and rivers. The air grew warmer, the sound of the river louder.
Although mostly downhill, this is also a long strenuous day.
By afternoon, we reached Dharapani , the end of the trail and hoped on a private Jeep that was waiting for us to take us to Besisar , a ~4 Hr ride along a challenging unpaved road along the mountainsides.
By afternoon, we reached Dharapani , the end of the trail and hoped on a private Jeep that was waiting for us to take us to Besisar , a ~4 Hr ride along a challenging unpaved road along the mountainsides.
TIP1: This day can be shortened by hoping on a jeep at Tilche , ~6 km before Dharapani . The road to Tilche is open and there are public Jeeps waiting like taxis to be hired at Tilche .
TIP2: The ride from Tilche or Dharapani to Besisar is about ~4 Hr on unpaved roads. Take this into account while planning your day and try not to drive these roads at night.
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This wasn’t just a 10-day trek. It was 10 days of presence, of walking side by side through something vast and humbling — a dream long delayed by the world, finally made real.
It was my great opportunity to organize the Manaslu Circuit trek for such a amazing father and sons from beautiful country Israel drear Eliav. https://orbitalpineadventure.com/trip/manaslu-circuit-trek-13-days
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